A trip for hardboiled prasat fans

(August 2005) I ride on a moped, driven by my friend and guide Chamnan. Seven other young Khmers are with us. We take the old road to Beng Mealea, running from the East­ Baray, south and east of the Phnom Bok. At the east side of its foot we stop and look for Prasat Trapeang Chambak (or: Prasat Trayoeng), just west of the road. We force our way into a thicket. A lintel is lying on the ground. Before I can take a photograph, the vege­­tation has to be cut off, and the relief is to be cleaned with a brush. Then we find a sandstone doorframe, properly moulded, and an octagonal colonnette, the entrance of a shallow cave. Nothing else but green is visible. Outside of the thicket I realize: the tower is still stand­ing upright in parts. Its superstructure has collapsed, covering the interior and the outside of the walls with debris. This hill has been overgrown totally, and is now crowned by a tall tree.A few kilometres on, at Wat Run, we see the remains of Prasat Run, just a square of some 2 m, formed by brick stones and a sandstone threshold at the east side.The road to the East, a laterite causeway, is becoming poorer and poorer. We pass a ditch on some swaying planks. Now, in the middle of August, young rice shoots are planted into the inundated fields. Picturesque, it is really a hard job, that’s why women do it, whilst the men are looking on. We pass by Don Lang village and stop at a secluded hut, the housing of a farmer’s family. From here we have to walk, some one thousand meters only, but rough enough.We trudge across rice fields and ditches. Sometimes there is a beam un­der the water, and sometimes unfathomable mud. I should have my trekking sandals. Then we reach dry soil – and a rampant jungle has devoured almost all the foot­path. Chamnan has a phkaek with him, a special long-handled chopper, borrowed from a farmer. In-between the green, a well preserved laterite wall, the enclosure of Prasat Trapeang Khyangg (or: Prasat Banteay Khyong).

We find a breach and climb inside: a brick tower, another one to the right. From here we cannot see tower number three, still more to the right, too many trees, shrubs and lianas are hiding it. Bit by bit we get an understanding: three brick towers, aligned north-south, orientated east. In front of the central tower: a mandapa with antarala and perhaps two fire shrines. We crawl through the gate pavilion, east gopura I. Here are traces of an inscription. Outside we find a labyrinth of strange ruins: South of the avenue a narrow long rectangular brick stone building, opening to the North or to the avenue, in the middle of its long side. On the opposite wall is a snanadroni (S), a gargoyle, irregularly running to the South. A colonnade  of laterite and sandstone covers the north face. North of this building are some remains and a lot of debris, this might have been a symmetrical building. The east gopura II must have been a stately building; now it is only visible from inside as outside it is drowned in debris and totally overgrown. The brick walls support corbelled brick vaults. On both sides it is flanked by a galleries or colonnades, made of laterite and sandstone pillars, also vaulted with brick.

(August 2007) On my second visit to Trapeang Khyangg there was a bridge crossing the ditch and we could go by car. We reached the temple with dry feet, but on the way back a companion fell into the water with his Nikon camera.

For more information contact Chamnan in Siem Reap, English and German speaking Angkor Tour Guide. 29.05.2011

Click to enlarge (Map from APSARA, mod.)


Photo Album

.