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Banteay Chhmar - Banteay Toap - Photo album

In Banteay Chhmar we can find the ruins of a vast Buddhist temple city, built by King Jayavarman VII (1181-1218/20).
Located in north-west Cambodia, near the Thai border, the ruins are accessible from Sisophon (RN6) by a good laterite road, 62 km.

The City

1  City, 2, 5 km square, surrounded by a dike and a moat.
2  Baray (water basin), in the centre Prasat Mebon.
3  Inner moat and enclosure Wall, 1,000 m x 800 m.
4  Four causeways with giant gods and demons, each line holding a naga .
5  Fire shrine ("dharmasalla").

The Main Temple

6 Gallery with reliefs, four gates, enclosing the Main Temple,
250 m x 200 m.
7 Water basins
3D reconstruction 1
3D reconstruction 2

Visit

Enter the temple from the East (4E) in the morning or from the West (4W) in the afternoon. At the east entrance a police officer will demand $5 from every barang..

Have a boy to find the way through the central temples and to see the reliefs. As every building has more or less broken down, you have to step over fallen sandstone blocks; that's strenuous, and dangerous if wet. You need good shoes.

On the way back you follow the outside of the Gallery.

The reliefs, to a large extent destroyed, show scenes at the royal court or military events, similar to the outer gallery of the contemporary Bayon; but here there are also mythological scenes, as the Churning of the Sea, and Heaven and Hells.
8 (north wing) Men or gods fighting against rahu (monsters). In the lower register the rahu swallows a king together with his cart and draughts.
9 (south wing) two reliefs of the Bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara.
BC map
BCm CAC numbers

You leave the temple at the south entrance (6s) and go on to Prasat Ta Prohm (10), a pretty face tower in a picturesque location. Link. In Banteay Chhmar village you will find a basic guesthouse (northeast of 4E), and food stalls (11).

Banteay Toap

Contemporary with Banteay Chhmar, it is an interesting ruin.

After some 7 km on the road from Banteay Chhmar to Sisophon, a road goes to the left (west), marked by an adorned doorway. After some 2 km you see the towers on the right.

Five towers were linked by axial galleries and a mandapa at the East. At the East and the West are large entrance buildings. The temple is surrounded by a wide moat and two enclosure walls. At the centre, and at east and south, three towers are still standing upright. Besides the remains of a smashed lintel at the East, there are no reliefs. Some remains of the original carved wooden ceiling still exist. The towers make an impressive picture; best light is in the afternoon.

References
Briggs, p. 225-228.
Carte archéologique du Cambodge, Province de Banteay Mean Chey, 2006.
Carte archéologique du Cambodge, Groupe de Banteay Chhmar, 2007.
Freeman, p, 136-141.
Jacques/Lafond, p. 246-256.
Roveda 2005, p. 434-444.

External links

Visit Banteay Chhmar
Wikipedia
Wahington Post
Andy Brouwer

Banteay Chhmar Videos of Ancient Khmer Temple
Banteay Chhmar - Working to save an other Angkor Wat
Eingestürzter Tempel entsteht im Computer neu
The open road to Banteay Chhmar - Travelfish

http://www.globalheritagefund.org/video/banteay_chhmar_update2011

http://popular-archaeology.com/issue/september-2011/article/a-great-ancient-angkor-temple-complex-to-rise-again

Bantey Toap