Aerial view of Preah Vihear (Lajonquière, about 1900 AD)
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Aerial view of Preah Vihear (Lajonquière, about 1900 AD)
The Dangrek Mountains run some 400 km west-east, recently marking the border between Thailand and Cambodia. Near the middle of this wall an overhanging cliff, pointing to the South, makes the most remarkable site for a Khmer temple: Preah Vihear. The cliff of Preah Vihear is 730 m high, 500 m over the surrounding plains. From 9th to 13th century, Khmer kings have erected this temple for Shiva, ' the Lord of the Summit ', their national god. The temple opens to the North. The central shrine near the vertex of the cliff is approached by successive courts, stairways, causeways, and gopuras (gate pavilions), all in all some 800 m north-south, rising 120 m. Description Guarded by lions, the steep Northern Stairway (11th century) has 163 steps. The top platform is lined by two seven-headed naga. Gopura II and Main Temple (late 10 th to 11 th century) Gopura II is lengthened by lateral colonnades framing the courtyard. The short avenue is flanked by boundary stones and naga . Two fire shrines open towards the mandapa. The eastern shrine is tinted red by lichens. The North Gopura I is a veritable shrine with mandapa, reaching into the second enclosure. The first enclosure was accessed by lateral gates. Framed by a gallery with a gopura to the North and a blind gopura to the South, the inner enclosure comprises a tower with mandapa. The tower, now collapsed, sheltered a lingam. The pedestal in the mandapa supported a Nandi. At the entrance face: Shiva dancing after killing an elephant. West and east of the first enclosure are two symmetrical buildings; several rooms are framing a courtyard each. The east building is slimmer as the edge of the cliff is nearby. The function of these buildings is unknown, though it must have been essential. Located at the vertex of the mountain the sanctuary is isolated from the world around. It was a hermetic place of meditation, dedicated to Shiva, as the Lord of the Summit. When the mountain is shrouded in clouds or fog, visitors can see the temple in heaven. To gain the summit of the cliff visitors leave the enclosure by the small door in the west face of the gallery. The summit of the cliff rises beyond the temple. At the summit are traces of ancient quarries. The view can take your breath away: In front of us the plains of north Cambodia; in clear air you can see Phnom Kulen, 100 km to the Southwest, and Phnom Tbaeng, 90 km to the Southeast. Thailand is to the North, in the back of the mountain. History An inscription tells that King Jayavarman II (800-850) has got a fragment of a lingam from Wat Phu to Preah Vihear and started building a temple in 813 AD, of which no traces remain. But the actual buildings are close to the east edge of the cliff, regarding the location of an older building. Thailand claims Preah Vihear as its territory and has pushed its border to the vicinity of the temple. Nevertheless Preah Vihear is embedded in an old Khmer land. |
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About the history of this conflict:
A traveller in Siem Reap told me that he has visited Preah Vihear in April 2010. Troops were omnipresent. Cambodian and Thai soldiers were pecefully talking to each other at the dispueted boarder; he colúld make handshakes with the Thais. Access The road from Siem Reap to Preah Vihear is now (May 2010) finished till Trapeang Prasat (141 km). In Anlong Veng (109 km) you can find a restaurant. From Trapeang Prasat to Prasat Preah Vihear is a good laterite road (70 km), 2 hours fore one way.. You can stay over night in Sra Em (30 km from the temple) or in Ko Muay , the village at the west foot of the hill, from there you can reach the temple by moto doup ($5), or climb up the 500 m hill (1.5 to 2 hours). Entrance fee $2.5. A one day trip from Siem Reap by van is about $180. Call Mr. Thim in Siem Reap, 012 903 798. References
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