Sambor Prei Kuk
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South Group - North Group - Srei Krup Leak & RobangRomeas - Other temples - Eric De Vries - Photo album - Access

The pre-Angkorian monuments of Sambor Prei Kuk ( 'The City of Shiva in the Forest of Towers ' (Jacques/Lafond, p. 81; Brugier/Lacroix 2010, p. 151.) are located 25 km north-east of Kampong Thom, near the west bank of the Saen River.
Researchers recovered dikes which framed a nearly square city, 2 by 2 km. It was the capital of a regional kingdom, featuring some 50 temples.Map.

Three groups of temples were built at the east of the city:

  • The North Group, by Isanavarman I (616 - 628) to Rajendravarman (944-968) Map.
  • The South Group, by Ishanavarman I.
  • The Central Group, by Jayavarman II (800 - 850).

These complexes are of similar structure:

  • All towers are made of brick.
  • The central tower is raised on a platform, and surrounded by smaller towers.
  • The towers sheltered a lingam in a pedestal or a statue of the god or goddess.
  • The entrance door, which is generally to the east, and false doors, at the other faces, are made of sandstone.
  • Each group is enclosed by two concentric brick walls.
  • The whole complex is symmetrical to its east-west axis.
  • These temples were linked to the river by straight avenues.

Special features of Sambor Prei Kuk

  • Octagonal towers,
  • The 'mandapa' tower S2, and
  • The 'flying palaces'
    On the walls of some towers there are miniatures of a palace in heaven; supported by flying hamsa (sacred wild geese).

South Group  or:  Prasat Yeay Puon 

The South Group is the temple of King Ishanavarman (616 - 628).
The interior room of the Central Tower S1 measures 9.05 m by 5.21 m, this is the largest tower of all Khmer temples. (The standard in Angkor is 4 m by 4 m.) 
Look at the lintels, they are remarkable for their vivid design.
One of the flying palaces is the residence of an autonomous goddess. (Later on in history goddesses will be just the consorts of a god.)
About the Durga statue of Sambor Prei Kuk, link.
S1 was linked to the tower S2 in front of the main entrance by a flat stone bridge (from which only a few scraps have remained).
S2 opens the east and west. Inside is a monolithic canopy. The carvings show excellent craftsmanship. It sheltered a silver statue of Nandi who was facing his lord Shiva in the main tower. This tower has collapsed in 2008. Look at the small male faces in Indian style. 
The inner enclosure wall was adorned with circular medallions. Some of them have remained in the west.

The central tower of North Group (N1)

Map. The tower is a real character with extremely thik walls. It opens to the four directions, that's unusual. The interior, some 4.60 m square, a mighty linga-pedestal takes the whole interior.

Temples in the jungle

Located uphill, 2 km north of Sambor Prei Kuk, Srey Krup Leak and Robang Romeas are the remains of an ancient urban settlement, dating from the 6th and 7th centuries, and predating Sambor Pre Kuk.

Other temples

  • To the South are the temples of Trapeang Ropeak.
  • Just north of the North Group are several towers.
    Asram Isey - N17 - is the core of a sandstone tower which was totally dismantled.
  • To the Northwest, formerly in the north-east quarter of the ancient city, is Prasat Tamom.

All the sites are well worth a visit.

Monuments of Sambor Prei Kuk - Photographs by Eric de Vries
Free PDF-Download, 3.99 MB.

Photo album

Access

The road to Sambor Prei Kuk (& Preah Vihear) branches from the RN 6, 5 km north of Kampong Thom. After 15 km you turn right. $ 5 entrance fee. Plain food stalls. Road Map.
You can go by bus Siem Reap - Kampong Thom (- Phnom Penh), recommended: Mekong Express.
If you want to visit Sambor Prei Kuk, contact Im Sokhom; he can also help to organise your trips in Kampong Thom province & around. Warmly recommended! Telephone: (855) 012 691 527.
e-mail: guideimsokhom@yahoo.com or guideimsokhom@hotmail.com .  

Click the pics to enlarge.
S1 & S2

S1

N1

Interior N1
Flying palace

A goddess
N18
Robang Romeas

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External links

  • Andy Brouwer's Cambodia tales: Sambor Prei Kuk
  • Andy Brouwer: A sneak preview of the new Kampong Thom Provincial Museum
  • The Phnom Penh Post: Village pins economic dreams on tourism
  • SPIEGEL (German): Heiligtum mit Bombenkratern

References

  • Briggs, p. 74-75, 86.
  • Bruguier/Lacroix 2011, p. 150-222.
  • CA, p. 60.
  • CAC, Groupe de Sambor Prei Kuk , 2007.
  • Dalsheimer, p. 84-86.
  • Jacobsen
  • Jacques/Lafond, p. 81-97.
  • Parmentier 1927.
  • Stierlin, p. 131-133.